Travelogues

Narkanda: Gateway to Apple Country

Narkanda: Gateway to Apple Country

The true getaways in Himachal Pradesh now lie beyond its congested capital. And every year more and more tourists are using Shimla only as a night’s stopover before heading out to these greener, quieter , wilder places beyond.
Narkanda is one such small town. It is a hinterland deep in Shimla district which offers visitors not only peace but a chance to explore the beautiful apple orchard countryside.


Wadi Rum- The Arabic Desert Moonscape

Wadi Rum- The Arabic Desert Moonscape

If Petra is Jordan’s historical heritage, Wadi Rum is its Arabian Nights. Its in Wadi Rum where folklore meets imagination. No matter which part this small peaceful Middle-Eastern country you travel in, all reference points are invariably of the desert. Its just as well. Over thousands of centuries, the life of the Jordanians have been shaped by the deserts. Almost seventy five percent of Jordan is desert-like, much of it uninhibited. The civilization is squeezed to a narrow strip around river Jordan and the Dead Sea.


Hornbill Festival of Nagaland

Hornbill Festival of  Nagaland

Hornbill festival like most cultural festivals is essentially manufactured exotica. It is a big draw for exotica seeking tourists and for lazy journalists like myself who get to see the shoot Naga tribes in their tribal finery all under one roof without getting into the trouble of going into the hinterland where the real tribes actually live.
That of course takes a lot of perseverance, time , sweat and given the condition in Nagaland some degree of personal risk. Unfortunately I had stomach for none


Jordan, Middle-East

Jordan, Middle-East

Why would Prince William and Kate Middleton want to spend their honeymoon in Jordan of all the places in the world? Like everyone else I had wondered about it when I read the news. But on a recent trip to this middle-east country I realised why. Jordan is an oasis of peace in an area where suicide-bombings, repressions, reprisal shellings and political uprisings are a daily norm.


Beyond the Arctic Circle, Lapland

Beyond the Arctic Circle, Lapland

It can be pretty cheesy doing the usual exotic activities a country is famous for. Riding a reindeer sledge in the Arctic a la Santa is certainly one such. Its almost like jumping onto a bullock cart or a rickshaw ride in India. But Reindeer Sledging is something much more. No matter how old you are you cannot help but think of partaking in a Christmas legend you grew up reading through school.


Jodhpur the Sun City, Rajasthan

Jodhpur the Sun City, Rajasthan

Imagine a man thinking of making a 347 room luxurious villa for himself out of the misery of the people he is supposed to serve. Surprisingly the Maharaja is glorified to this day for this `noble’ gesture. Today Umaid Bhawan Palace is divided between a luxury hotel , a museum and the residence of the Maharajas’s successors. It still remains the largest private residence in the world.


Under My Umbrella in Cherrapunji, Meghalaya

Under My  Umbrella in Cherrapunji, Meghalaya

What do you do with at a place that has only one season? Cherrapunji the land of perpetual monsoons has the same scenery of mist , clouds, fog and the rain-washed hills no matter what time of the year you arrive here. It has already begun to rain in Shillong when I take the undulating road to Cherrapunji approx. 60 kilometers away. Thankfully by the time I reach Cherrapunji the rain has spent itself and is reduced to occasional busts of drizzle.


Chasing Tigers in Bandhavgarh

Chasing Tigers in Bandhavgarh

Whenever you enter a Tiger Reserve you are told – enjoy the rest of the forest and the other mammals and birds too. But that’s impossible. Everyone has eyes out only for the tiger.


Jodhpur to Bikaner- One heck of a Rat-racing Rajasthani Drive

Jodhpur to Bikaner- One heck of a Rat-racing Rajasthani Drive

Its not just the deer the animal loving Rajasthani’s idolize. At the Karni Mata temple 30kms short of Bikaner you encounter the wildest freak show of your life. Known as the `Rat temple’ around the world, the devout here however mean serious business. The temple run over by more than 20,000 rats are revered, fed and encouraged to crawl over your feet for good luck. This temple is definitely not for the squeamish and we beat a hasty retreat from the threshold.


Goa the Moveable Feast, India

Goa the Moveable Feast, India

(Whenever you meet a foreign tourist in India you inevitably get asked about Goa. I had never been to Goa and had no intention to go there until work took me there in november 2010. I am not a beach person though i have frolicked in some beaches in Malaysia and Zanzibar. In comparison Goa was a disappointment. A magazine however asked me to write a travelogue on the carnival atmosphere in Goa during the year end. I must admit i have not really written so much about my disappointment in the piece.)


Sand Dunes in Khuri- Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

Sand Dunes in Khuri- Jaisalmer, Rajasthan

Jaisalmer itself is exotic enough and the smell and feel of the
desert emanates from every street. If you have made the traditional touristy circuit
like I did- arriving first in the capital Jaipur then Jodhpur and now Jaisalmer, you
will see the colour palate of cities shifting dramatically from pink to blue to golden.


Sarahan-The Temple Town for the Pilgrim and the Traveller, Himachal

Sarahan-The Temple Town for the Pilgrim and the Traveller, Himachal

Sarahan, like most small hill stations in Himachal is a pilgrim town – an overgrown village really- where life revolves around its local God. The temple that enshrines the deity is ancient so are the myths and legends that keep changing depending on whom you talk to. No one minds the daily loud chimes of the temple bells mornings and evenings and my mother who is traveling with me as a pilgrim sighs inwardly in her serene way on hearing the first distant bell. Sarahan however has something for both the pilgrim and the traveler.


Kanchendzonga expedition- Second Puja at Base Camp (Day 29)

However I was so busy capturing them in my camera that I forgot to observe. Today I realise how photography can often be done at the expense of observation. I had even read somewhere that a man can at best work on one of his faculties at one time. Engaging oneself in more than one does justice to neither. I must admit that while I try to keep my angle right my focus and exposure right I often miss out on the human details that can be observed in stillness of mind and contemplation.


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Final Members Troop in (Day 28)

take quite a lot of shots of the members climbing up from the `crampon-point. I was also in time there to catch them descending. Today the team members besides Jaidev who is in Ramche, consolidate in Base Camp. According to Kazi who himself arrived here today, after sorting our some issues with his large employees, there are 42 people in Base Camp tonight.


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Days in Base Camp( Days 25- 27)

The food had been very bland and tepid until Col Sharma arrived at the Base Camp with Lama-our cook and waiter on 16th. By 17th every member is in the Base Camp except for Jaidev who is looking after the steady supply of provisions from Ramche to Base Camp.


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Rope Fixing to Camp 1 (Day 24)

It is daunting to say the least and I seriously doubt if the likes of Amit who stands horrified next to us will be able to make it to Camp 1, let alone the summit. I am using the old Olympus Manual camera and the 600mm lens to take pictures of them crawling tediously over the sheer vertical climb of the mountain.


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Snow at night and Puja in the morning (Day 23)

t began to snow after our dinner around seven. We are put up in what Gary informs me are `Artic tents’. It is pretty bland after our days in the fancy `North Face tents. However it is round and huge with accommodation for about 8 men unlike the North Face. One can stand and move around erect in it , with the pole being over 12 feet in the centre


Kanchenjunga Expedition-I reach Base Camp (Day 22)

Kanchenjunga Expedition-I reach Base Camp (Day 22)

My hands are numb and when the time comes to leave I cannot zip up my rucksack. Today was perhaps the toughest walk ever. It took me and my two fellow travellers Mahi Ram and Balwant over 5 hours of constant walk through glaciers , soft sand that sucked your foot in, boulders that threatened to roll over you or twist your ankle mortally and slopes that could drop you down into the snot-green glacier waters where one was sure to die of hypothermia even though today the sun shone its best.


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Journey to Base Camp Begins (Day 21)

Kanchenjunga Expedition-Journey to Base Camp Begins (Day 21)

We move through glaciers, big boulders but the soft pebbly mud make it an ordeal for me. To make matters worse it begins to rain. By the time we reach the intermediate Base Camp-after over 3km of walk-I am drenched to the skin


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Trek to nearby Mountain Peak (Day 20)

Kanchenjunga Expedition-Trek to nearby Mountain Peak (Day 20)

Jaidev looks quite something when he takes the ear-phones from Gary and pretends to enjoy the hard-metal music Gary listens to. Saunta, closes his eyes and begins to dance. Jagdev says the music is best for morning PT. I couldn’t agree with him more.


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Final expedition team arrives (Day 19)

Kanchenjunga Expedition-Final expedition team arrives (Day 19)

The final members of the expedition arrive and we are all set to move up to Base Camp. 8Sep- Final expedition team arrives The weather has been playing spoil-sport ever since we arrived in Tapleyjung. The helicopter has not been able to make a sortie since the last one on 5th sep in which I […]


Kanchenjunga Expedition-Halfway walk to Base Camp (Day 18)

Kanchenjunga Expedition-Halfway walk to Base Camp (Day 18)

After breakfast we go on a trek towards Base Camp. The idea is to acclimatize oneself and I am more than eager to go even though the army guys neither invite us nor inform us. Gary for his part is reluctant but he comes along seeing my enthusiasm.


Kanchenjunga Expedition- Trek though Ramche: Meet Sherpas etc (Day 17)

Kanchenjunga Expedition- Trek though Ramche: Meet Sherpas etc (Day 17)

There are over 80 yaks I am told with the herder who has the stone-hut nearby. Three of them are bulls and they snort powerfully. They probably want to mate, but none of the female Yaks are in heat, all have calves and Balwant tells me, when they wallow in the lake-they do so to cool off their sexual hea


Kanchenjunga Expedition- Finally land in Ramche (Day 16)

Kanchenjunga Expedition- Finally land in Ramche (Day 16)

However I am lucky to be in Ramche as the weather `packs up’ soon after . I am in the third sortie –today’s second and no other sortie comes through bedsides the two today.